Ah, the wonders of Roma. The ancient ruins, the romance…the pasta.
It is one of the most captivating cities in the world. I’m guessing many of you have been, perhaps more than once. You’ve seen the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain, and the Pantheon. All of which are well worth the visit.
On my recent trip, Rome was packed with people. Everyone seems to be traveling again, so I thought I would share some of the things I enjoyed most while I was there. They aren’t exactly off the beaten path, but they aren’t full of hordes of tourists, either.
1. The Galeria Doria Pamphilj was extraordinary. These are some of the most beautiful rooms I’ve ever been in, and you can stroll through them almost on your own without crowds.
Filled with velvets and brocades, art and furniture, they are the epitome of the luxe Italian lifestyle. By contrast, in the very same building is the studio of the contemporary painter Isabelle Ducrot, a 91 year old artist. It seemed quintessentially Roman to have the new layered right on top of the old.
2. The Gallery of Maps in the Vatican Museum contains the most spectacular, huge scale maps of Italy. The color and style of painting were absolutely entrancing. They had an indescribable charm to these paintings which makes little sense given their size.
Yes, the Sistine Chapel is incredible, but the Gallery of Maps was a most wonderful surprise. I could have spent hours there discovering more details…
3. Roman style artichokes! What a revelation. They are meltingly tender and delicious. I had them for dinner on my first night at Hostaria da Pietro and was so enamored of them I ate them pretty much wherever I went after that (although da Pietro’s were my favorite).
The restaurant also serves a superb truffle pasta which I devoured. Da Pietro is within walking distance of the Spanish Steps, and it is a simple place. We refused the offered seats in the back with the other tourists and instead sat in the wood paneled room at the front with groups of Italians. So much more fun! I’m going to try this recipe for the artichokes at home.
4. Yes, I shopped, but not as much as you might think. My dear husband came away with more than me, one of the reasons I love him so much. But I did shop, and there were two standouts for me.
Antichita Allesandra di Castro, the most Roman of antique stores, carries all sorts of finds both large and small. There was a mosaic table fit for the garden of royalty as well as a collection of carved miniature busts. I would love to have a few of these conversation starters on my coffee table.
By contrast, Roi du Lac, is a bright and modern home goods/ready-to-wear shop filled with fun patterns and must have goodies. Their melamine plates are to die for.
5. Not technically in Rome, there are a couple of side trips I highly recommend if you have the time. The Benedictine Abbey at Monte Casino is a beautiful structure set high on a hill, and filled with WWII history. The mosaics are incredible and the nearby cemetery honoring the Polish who fought there is quite moving.
And absolutely DO NOT miss going to the Tivoli gardens and Hadrian’s Villa. These are just a quick 45 minute drive from Rome and provide much needed respite from the city. Wandering through these beautiful gardens and ruins are a day well spent. Make sure to book Sibilla for lunch in between.
6. There are dozens of excellent hotels in Rome, most just minutes away from the Spanish Steps, the epicenter of the city.
I stayed at the Hotel de La Ville, a Rocco Forte property, and was very pleased with the old style comfort and service. Although it was right in the middle of town, the rooms were very peaceful. Next time I might try the newly opened W Hotel. It is very arty and fashionable and looks like fun.
