My husband and I have talked about going to Berlin forever.
He’s a huge WWII buff, and I love all the old, great cities of Europe – but somehow we just never made it to Berlin. Until recently…and we were both absolutely blown away by what we found there.
This was a city beaten down by both world wars and communist rule. But that was before. What Berliners have accomplished since is truly astonishing.
We spent 2 jam packed days in the city, but wished we had a third – there was so much to see.
TIP: Bettina Asmus is a wonderful local guide who tailored the visit to our specific interests. She is incredibly well informed on all things Berlin and helped us visualize not only the city’s past, but also the Berlin of the future. Be aware that the sites are not all close to one another. We spent one day walking the city and hired a car the second.
What to Do
This is a brief and very personal list of suggestions:
The Reichstag
Book ahead if you want to do a tour. We didn’t, but will the next time we go.
Brandenburg Gate
For photos, go very early in the morning to avoid cars and people. Or not. We still got some great pics.
The Topography of Terror
This spot feels like a microcosm of the history of the city. The Luftwaffe building sets the backdrop (architecturally very interesting in and of itself). In front of that is a large chunk of the actual wall, and below that, a poignant series of photographs detailing the build up to Naziism set in the old Gestapo headquarters. The layering of history here is what makes it so interesting. Plan at least an hour or two here – you will lose track of time.
Eastside Gallery
Contemporary artists’ murals on pieces of the Berlin wall. An hour stroll here is time well spent.
Hackesche Hofe
is a series of courtyards, and not to be missed. It is a younger, grittier part of the city and it’s known for the graffiti. I also loved the buildings covered in colorful tiles of Art Nouveau design.
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe:
A massive complex designed by Peter Eisenman and Buro Happold featuring thousands of concrete slabs. It is simple and incredibly moving to walk through them.
Museum Island
Yes, it is an island full of museums, and they have some really good ones, including the Neues Museum, which I believe holds the largest collection of Egyptology outside of Cairo.
And there is so much more. Templehof Airport, boat tours, the Kreuzberg area, cocktails at The Monkey Bar, climbing the Siegesaule Column for views over the city, and on and on.
TIP: The one thing to skip is Checkpoint Charlie. Given it’s history, it should be a super cool spot, but it really is just a tacky tourist stop.
The best thing, honestly, was walking and walking (day or night) and discovering all the beauty of Berlin.
What to See
We spent quite a bit of time looking at buildings, both historical and new (Frank Gehry, Mies Van Der Rohe, etc.). There is so much amazing architecture in this city, illustrating the substantial accomplishments Berliners made since the wall came down.
The juxtaposition of the 1894 Reichstag with the neighboring, contemporary Bundestag (Parliament) buildings will delight fans of history and admirers of construction.
Walking a path along the Spree River is a wonderful way to take in these sights. Also on my not to miss list are I.M. Pei’s German Historical Museum, Frank Gehry’s DZ Bank Building, and Ar. Hans Scharoun’s Berlin Philharmonic. I could go on…
What to Eat
We had some wonderful meals in Berlin. I highly recommend you book the tasting meal at Nobelhart & Schmutzig. The restaurant is very quirky and not easy to get into. In fact, when you arrive there is little or no indication that anything is happening behind what looks like a regular shop door. Once you find the bell and are allowed entry, the adventure begins.
TIP: The atmosphere is fantastic – try a table at the counter so that you can watch the chefs at work. There is a butter course. Need I say more?
Kink and Heimlich Treu were also excellent, very relaxed and casual. You might also stop in at Sale e Tabacchi on Rudi Dutschke Strasse. I loved the high ceilings and the dark red painted walls, a design style that seems de rigueur in Berlin. The pasta was delicious and the service was very friendly.
Where to Sleep
Our hotel was the handsome Hotel de Rome, a part of the Roco Forte group. It was incredibly well located and had the best (no exaggeration, I assure you) breakfast buffet I’ve ever experienced.
Soho House Berlin has a hip, old family money vibe like all their properties. It is relaxed and clubby. Problem is, I would never want to leave the hotel to see the sights.
This is a city to visit again and again, and I can see why the locals are proud to say “ich bin ein Berliner”.
Next time I visit, I might try the SO/Berlin Das Stue. Set in a classical building, with furnishings by design guru Patricia Urquiola, this is modern elegance at its finest.
