I’ve just returned from a great Christmas and New Year’s holiday in the UK. It had everything I love about England, including charming, little villages and hamlets and long walks in wide, grassy fields beside herds of sheep and cows. Plus great food! You know I love to eat well.
That got me thinking about some of the best weekends I’ve spent there, tacked onto a few days in London or another big European city. These places are just pure pleasure. They are beautiful, and there is plenty of culture to be had nearby — but these are also places to “have a lie-in” (Brit for sleeping late) and enjoy a Sunday roast.
Cliveden House – Taplow, England
Built in 1666 and inhabited over the years by royals and Astors, Cliveden has been a luxury hotel since 1985. Its sprawling estate sits on 376 acres of protected National Trust gardens and includes a real maze, manicured parterre gardens and even an amphitheater.
Because so many people come to visit the National Trust property, I would suggest going in the off season. We went in November and had two crystal clear days, followed by a cold, rainy one. We had a “lie-in,” got lost in the maze and had afternoon cocktails in the gorgeous, wood-paneled library (bar) overlooking the gardens.
When it rained, we asked them to build a fire in our room (yes, it had a working fireplace, a sitting room and a four-poster bed) and got cozy with tea and biscuits and our books. I don’t think I’ve ever had a more relaxing weekend. Book a dinner in the restaurant — so worth it for the food and the incredible setting.
You will feel like a Crowley. I promise.
Babington House – Frome, England
Babington House, an old manor in the heart of Somerset, has a completely different vibe than almost any other place I’ve stayed. Just a couple of hours drive outside of London, it is chic in the most relaxed, young-urbanite-getting-away-for-the-weekend kind of way. Everything is done to make you feel at home — there are Wellington boots in all sizes and bikes for all ages ready for guests to use.
In the summer, there is croquet on the lawn, and in winter there are roaring fires and a pool table in the bar. Or you might prefer to see a film in the private movie theater. There is also a delicious spa on the property, so you can don your Wellies while still in your bathrobe and head over for a massage.
Babington feels a little less Downton Abbey and a little more like staying at your very cool friend’s house in the country. The picturesque town of Bath is nearby, so plan on going there for an afternoon of shopping and sight-seeing.
The Newt (Hadspen House) – Bruton, England
The Newt is a spectacularly unique property. The hotel itself beautifully manages to cross Georgian architecture with a cozy farmhouse style. Guests can choose to stay in the elegant main house or in the more rustic, but Instagramable converted stables.
There are all kinds of amenities here, including farm-to-table food, a pool and tea served in the library, but what makes this place so special are the gardens. It has acres upon acres of formal gardens, including one with only white flowers, one with only red and one with only blue.
There are huge vegetable plots and an airy and romantic grassland area. You will see deer and rabbits, and birds and bees by the hundreds. There are also educational opportunities, including an interactive gardening exhibition and cider tasting tours. Even if you aren’t a gardener, you will absolutely want to spend time discovering this horticultural wonderland.
Number One Bruton – Bruton, England
The town of Bruton has become quite stylish in recent years. Its quaint streets are filled with great restaurants (At The Chapel), fun shops and gorgeous art galleries (Hauser & Wirth).
The place I want to stay on my next visit is Number One Bruton, a little, 12-room gem tucked into an old forge. One of the best reasons to stay here (besides the charming, antique-filled hotel rooms) is its restaurant, Osip.
Osip has one Michelin Star and must be booked separately to the hotel, and I promise, you will not be disappointed. I ate here with my family this past New Year’s Eve and was blown away by the food. The portions are small for each of the courses (I think there were nine), but you won’t leave hungry. We enjoyed rustic bread with quails’ eggs and caviar, a positively transformational mushroom broth and a delicate venison loin with juniper berries.
We did the wine pairings (yes, we had a driver who didn’t drink!), and next time when we are staying at One Bruton, all we will have to do is stagger happily to our rooms.
