After you travel to some places, you check them off your list. But there are other places that you could return to again and again.
For me, that’s San Miguel de Allende in Guanajuato. It is absolutely magical. The cobblestone streets and colonial architecture draw you in, but the near perfect year round temperatures and fascinating culture keep you coming back. It is a city of festivals and boisterous color, artists and artisans at work, and – to be honest – a little bit of a fascination with death.
1. Where to Sleep
There are plenty of fabulous places to stay in San Miguel, but here are my favorites:
Best Location
Recently I stayed at the Casa de Sierra Nevada – just steps from the main square and major sights, and has an old world flavor.
Something Modern
Try Hotel Matilda. Everything feels new and fresh, if just a bit homogeneous.
Ultimate Luxury
For the ultimate in luxury (as well as a killer rooftop bar), the Rosewood can’t be beat.
Next time I go, my plan is to bring the family and rent the stunning (and in-town) Casa Tortugas. Don’t be scared by the fact that it is a popular wedding venue. The rooms are rich with style and history, and there are gardens, a pool and multiple patios with gorgeous views.
2. What to See
Like so many other pretty, touristy cities, you can hot air balloon or horseback ride – and if you are going with kids, breaking up your trip with an adventure is probably a good idea. Full disclosure–I didn’t do either of those things. Because really, the best thing to do in San Miguel is to walk. Or sit in the park with an ice cream and watch the world go by.
You will want to see the Parroquia (it’s kind of hard to miss), the church in the central square. It is the spectacular, gothic meets Gaudi defacto emblem of the city, and the rosy color glows with the changing light.
I also loved spending time at the Instituto Allende – an old family home with a beautiful courtyard. Now it houses an art school and cafe, and there are a few artist’s studios as well. You should not miss the wonderful murals and mosaics in the Guadalupe district. It is an easy walk from town, and well worth experiencing these artworks up close.
3. How to Dress
San Miguel style is relaxed and hip, so I packed flowy dresses that worked for both day and at night.
There are two things to keep in mind:
First, the temperatures dip sharply at night, so you need a wrap or light jacket. I brought a colorful cashmere cardigan in sunset colors that worked over everything else I wore, and I was very happy I had it, especially in the chill at the start of the day.
Second, (and you will enjoy your trip so much more if you heed this advice), pack ONLY comfortable shoes. Flats are good, but flats with rubber soles are even better. The cobblestone streets are wildly uneven, and the narrow stone sidewalks are worn and slippery. My Golden Goose Superstar sneakers were lifesavers!
4. Where to Shop
The joy of shopping in San Miguel is the discovery. There are very few store front windows, so you simply peek through doors opening onto the streets to find new treasures. That’s how I discovered Laura Reyes (Aldama No. 43). A friend had recommended them for beautiful hand-dyed wraps and scarves, and I just happened onto the tiny little shop. Every item they carry is something you need (but tell yourself you are buying them for gifts).
Don’t miss the new Fisher Weisman showroom at Sollano No. 16 for the array of artwork, furniture, and lighting that these talents produce right in San Miguel. I was so excited by it that I am purchasing one of their chandeliers for my new house!
There are great open air markets to poke through–at one, I found the most incredible, hand-painted Catrina dolls. But if you only have time for one stop, make it Fabrica La Aurora (Calzada de la Aurora). An art gallery/shopping experience, there is something for everyone here.
5. Delicioso! (Where to Eat)
Some of the best food in San Miguel can be found from local street vendors or in little spots without signs tucked behind courtyard walls.
If you want something fancier, the pastries at Panio are irresistible. Pick one up for breakfast and munch as you stroll.
For dinner, the food at The Restaurant is top notch. It’s also a beautiful spot, right off town square. I’d go for the squash blossom ravioli with huitlacoche sauce. Si, por favor!
If you are looking for an adventure, don’t miss the rooftop of Quince. The food is good, and the views cannot be beat. But trust me, you will want to stay for the high wire act after dark. Enough said.
